Everyday on our walks back from work, Christina and I pass a lot of Koreans in full hiking gear, heading to the mountains that surround campus. It had been about a month before we decided to check out the mountain as well. In order to hike in Korea it is necessary to first purchase an entire hiking ensemble i.e. Hiking boots, special brand name hiking pants (the pants Christina and I looked at purchasing were 120,000 won or about $120), spandex hiking shirt, mesh vest, two poles, hiking backpack, gloves, and an athletic sun hat. This trend seems to mainly exist in the older generations of hikers, most likely due to he fact that they have the expenses to afford this expensive gear, and the time to use it often enough to justify purchasing it. When I first arrived in Korea I thought that buying an entire outfit before hiking a “glorified hill” was ridiculous. However, the more Koreans I saw with the outfits the more I felt like I needed to go out and buy myself some hiking pants… Even as an outsider to most of Korean life and culture, I felt the pressure to “look the part,” even for something as simple as climbing up a mountain. Unfortunately, or fortunately – however you want to look at it – I don't have the funds to buy myself all sorts of hiking gear, or the space to cart it all back home so I refrained from purchasing an entire outfit for myself. Consequently, the question, why do Koreans buy and wear everything they would need for a three day expedition up mt. Kilimanjaro to climb the much less difficult mountain literally in their back yard ultimately comes to mind… Why do they buy 120 dollar pants to walk along smooth paths and climb conveniently placed stairs that lead up the mountain…?
The only answer that comes to mind is the importance of keeping up appearances and status. “Gangnam” culture – focused on brand names and beauty via plastic surgery – does not only exist within Gangnam’s limits. Buy purchasing this gear and spending the day at the mountain, Koreans show that they are successful, in economy and in society. It is very rare to see Koreans hiking alone, they most often walk along the trails in groups of men or women, and, based on what I’ve seen so far, there are also very few Koreans that hike the more difficult parts of the mountain. Most of these hiking groups with their intense hiking shoes and poles stay on the flatter paths along the base of the mountain, stopping at raised platforms to drink makoli and eat packed foods or boxes of fried chicken. The few Koreans that hike alone often seem to be the more intense hikers, and are usually men. When Christina and I hiked, wearing our best clothes… Just kidding, we looked terrible haha… We climbed to the top of the mountain. For the first part of the hike, the path was actually a paved road. Then it transitioned to very nicely placed, flat stones. Most of the earliest inclines had stairs with hand rails. It wasn't until we mad it almost to the top of the mountain that the path became difficult to hike, and we were almost completely alone. There were a few older men at the top and a random Japanese couple. The views at the top of the mountain were incredible. We could see across a good portion of Seoul, including Sillim where we live. The views from the mountain by our house rivaled those of Namsan Tower! It is definitely not necessary to buy the full hiking outfit in order to enjoy the beauty of Seoul’s mountainous terrain! After completing the hike, I can easily understand why hiking culture in Korea is so popular! The mountains are literally everywhere, and thus are easily accessible by subway and bus, anyone can quickly travel to a hiking site. Also, hiking is a relatively (gear costs aside) inexpensive activity, anyone can hike. Especially the easier paths that wind along the base of the mountains. It seems that hiking is also a highly social activity, old friends meet up and spend the day away from the bustle of the city, walking through the woods, enjoying fresh air, company, and good food! After spending a month in the city it was really nice to stand above it all (literally) and breath in some fresh air!
Not to mention hiking is great exercise :)
Not to mention hiking is great exercise :)
Public transportation in Korea is a relatively inexpensive and efficient method of moving around the city. The buses and subway’s are always crowded, packed with Koreans of all ages. Although owning a car in Korea seems to be preferred and a pretty big deal – especially as a student – I can't deny the importance of public transportation, especially as a foreigner and non car owner in Korea. Christina and I have the bus and subway system pretty much figured out, it's come to the point that I have the order of subway stops memorized in both directions from Sillim. The subway is definitely the most efficient way to move around the city. Traffic is pretty much always horrible, and so the subway’s predictable time schedule (green line train cycles about every 2-3 minutes between stations) is very helpful! After a month of observation, it think it is time to discuss subway culture! Yay! The first thing I noticed on the subways was simply the sheer amount of people that ride them, although with a population of around 12 million with in Seoul’s limits, I suppose I'm not surprised at the crowds. The second thing that I observed while riding the subway was the fact that all Koreans form two orderly lines while waiting for a train. They line up along the sides of the doors in order to let others exit first before entering the train… They also form lines on the escalators that lead down to the subways (those who wish to stand stay on the right in order to leave space on the left for those who want to move faster).
When I was 17 I visited New York City, and rode the subway around town. My subway experience in the States was much more hectic, noisy, dirty, and unpleasant compared to riding the subways in Korea. The subways are also almost completely silent, everyone keeps to themselves, reading book or playing a game on their phone as they wait. There is a general air of respect of others on all transportation in Korea. I have never seen any individuals who think hey are entitled to take up three seats on the subway, or refuse to give their spot up for an orderly man or women with young kids, and honestly, I find this remarkable. There are designated seats in each subway car specifically reserved for the elderly, pregnant, or disabled, and if there are no elderly, sick, or disable on the car at that moment in time those seats will remain empty. I would never dare to sit in those seats, no matter how many old ladies try to get me to sit next to them (they invite you to sit down sometimes when you’re nearby). I cannot even count on one hand the number of people who have gotten up and handed over their coveted seat on he subway for an elderly man, woman etc. I’d have to hypothesize these occurrences of order and respect to Korea’s history of respect for the older generation, and their lack of “self entitlement” that many American’s possess i.e. Believing that you deserve to sit in the elderly seating as much as a old grandmother. There seems to be a strong connection between all Koreans that stems from pride they feel for their country and their nationality, which materializes in the form of order and respect for the people and places around them (the subways are also very clean). Although during rush hour you may be pushed around a bit as people try to cram into the cars, everyone tries their best to not crush the people around them… Haha.
Line number 5, much less crowded than line 2. Line 2 (green line) is the line Christina and I most often take, and travels in a circular path through Seoul. All these Koreans look really happy to be riding the subway :) Also, I just realized that I think that lady saw me taking this picture… whoops…
Actually, the other day as Christina and I were headed somewhere on the subway, a lady got stuck between the subway doors… And I mean actually stuck, she couldn't move… Immediately two guys next to her tried to pry the doors open to free her, but were unsuccessful. Thankfully the train driver realized something was wrong and reopened the doors, and she seemed to be fine except for two long red lines on her arms and possibly a bit of embarrassment. Also, probably due to the crowds, getting off at your stop on the subway or the bus means you stand up and move towards the door at the stop before i.e. Christina and I get off at the Sillim stop to go home from the subway, but we stand up and move towards the door at Sindaebang (the stop before ours). Korean culture seems to be very focused on “Bali, Bali,” – hurry hurry, and alternating this activity with squatting on the street having a rest. Overall, transportation in Korea is very well designed and implemented, and very convenient!
On a related note… Christina and I get stared at pretty much all the time, but it seems like the subway is the worst. Old men especially will very unashamedly stare you down from across the subway, and a few will try to take secret pictures… That are completely obvious to both Christina and I… Haha. When I first came to Korea I was a little bothered by all the staring, but after a month I've pretty much gotten used to it. It really is understandable considering there are very few foreigners here, a lot less than I expected… Especially where Christina and I live.
I had planned on discussing fashion in Korea, but this blog is getting pretty long, so ya’ll can look forward my fashion post in next week’s blog :)
I had planned on discussing fashion in Korea, but this blog is getting pretty long, so ya’ll can look forward my fashion post in next week’s blog :)
Next up is “river culture” in Seoul. The Hangang is a very prominent destination in Korea. In recent years the Korean government has spent a lot of money and resources in developing their park system, and there are many fantastic parks along the river! On Saturdays and Sundays the parks are full of young couples and families with small children day camping in tents and on mats. There are many people that ride rented bikes on the bike paths (3,000 won for 1hr), and order chicken along the river banks. There is also a lot of impromptu street performances from upandcoming singers and rappers along with traditional music and dance. When Christina and I were at the river on Sunday we watched a traditional music performance as well as some traditional Koran dance. There was also a rap group… But they sang out of tune… And I am highly trained in music and singing out of tune really bothers me… So we left… Haha. Butt he rapping was very good! And they sang with much energy, it was very admirable! I have to say, one of my favorite things about visiting the river was the fried chicken. They had a lot of street vendors near the subway entrance, and you could buy all varieties of street foods, including chicken! I had some fantastic chicken on a stick! I also got bombarded by the pamphlet handing out ladies… So, I was walking casually through the street vendors, trying to decide what to eat, when a nice old lady handed me a pamphlet. Being the innocent foreigner that I am, I took it. Big. Mistake. There was a line of ten other ajumas behind her, and they all shoved papers into my hand. I think I ended up with twenty different chicken pamphlets within 3 seconds… It all happened so fast! I swear that I blinked and suddenly I had all sorts of paper in my hand! Of course Christina just laughed at me, she didn't even try to defend me from the onslaught!!
Speaking of ajumas, there was a very nice ajuma selling 500 won ice cream from a cart. It came in purple and green flavors, but was delicious! We went back twice, and became good friends with her. She even gave us free extra cones to catch the melting ice cream with! Although he explanation to why we were being handed two cones instead of one took time and a lot of hand motions…. I'd imagine that the ice cream lady is usually visited by kids, but nevertheless the ice cream was worth the weird stares!
The section of park that we visited had a large wadding pool for children. It was completely surrounded by tents, and full of young kids splashing and playing in the water! Basically a dream come true for any 6 yr old! On the sides of the pool there were angled cement edges that acted as slides into the water, and families brought little sleds for their kids to slide on. One kid ended up sliding the wrong way, and fell off the back of the ledge – a fall of about three feet directly into concrete – but shook it off like a trooper, and went right back to play after being picked hastily off the ground by his worried mother.
In addition to the enormous amounts of kids, almost every young person at the park was part of a couple. They were everywhere! Going for romantic strolls, listening to music, and drinking and eating on mats. I think it would be really depressing to be a single Korean at the parks here, haha.
The section of park that we visited had a large wadding pool for children. It was completely surrounded by tents, and full of young kids splashing and playing in the water! Basically a dream come true for any 6 yr old! On the sides of the pool there were angled cement edges that acted as slides into the water, and families brought little sleds for their kids to slide on. One kid ended up sliding the wrong way, and fell off the back of the ledge – a fall of about three feet directly into concrete – but shook it off like a trooper, and went right back to play after being picked hastily off the ground by his worried mother.
In addition to the enormous amounts of kids, almost every young person at the park was part of a couple. They were everywhere! Going for romantic strolls, listening to music, and drinking and eating on mats. I think it would be really depressing to be a single Korean at the parks here, haha.
Christina and I stayed late at the park to watch the sun set, and enjoy the last bits of a very nice, dry, day in the sun! Right before we were going to leave, we were sitting on a park bench eating ice-cream from the nice ice-cream ajuma, two older men approached us and asked us if we were Russian… I had heard that this would happen, especially if you are blond. The old men think that you are Russian prostitutes… Upon being told that we were definitely not Russian, the old men were very nice and civilized, they asked us where we were from and chatted about the park. Lol, apparently eating ice cream on a park bench wearing long shorts and shirts up to our necks screams Russian prostitute… Haha.
Thats all for this week! Research should be up soon! Happy reading and have a nice week :)
Thats all for this week! Research should be up soon! Happy reading and have a nice week :)